New Canadian Cuisine Spring 2012
Hitting the Spot
Spring is the best season to get cooking with wild BC spot prawns
By Eric Pateman · Flavours’ Ambassador of New Canadian Cuisine
Spring—the time when new shoots are sprouting and buds begin to burst from their slumber. Most people associate the season’s renewal with bounty from the soil, but on the West Coast this time of year also indicates a bounty from the sea. Most notably, the spring symbolizes wild BC spot prawns, one of the coast’s most coveted crustaceans.
Wild BC spot prawns (or spot shrimp) are the largest of the seven commercial species of shrimp found on Canada’s Pacific coast. Easily recognized for their auburn colour (which turns bright pink when cooked), namesake white spots on their tail and stripes on their top upper shell, they are only harvested during a very short window, usually starting in May and lasting six to eight weeks. Their sugary sweet, delicate flavour and firm, crunchy texture has made them a sought-after delicacy worldwide. In fact, more than 90 per cent of BC’s commercial catch is frozen at sea and consumed in Asia. What little we see here however is celebrated by all kinds of chefs no matter what their culture or cuisine of choice. Vancouver’s annual BC spot prawn Festival, organized by the Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia, has many of the city’s top chefs prepare a spot-prawn boil for the public, encouraging people to buy live, locally sourced and sustainable prawns direct off the docks and educating them as to sustainable choices.
Those sustainable seafood practices are a major part in the wild spot prawn phenomenon. Supported by Oceanwise and SeaChoice criteria, stocks are carefully monitored and managed to ensure they remain viable and that collection has minimal impact on ocean habitat. In BC the majority of the harvest comes from the pristine waters between Vancouver Island and the mainland.
Market-inspired Seafood Chowder
At Edible Canada in the Granville Island Market, one of our signature dishes summing up our vision of new Canadian cuisine is this chowder. In addition to showcasing the abundant diversity of local seafood, the soup incorporates numerous Asian influences so prevalent in BC and across Canada. This soup can be thought of as “antenna to tail,” as it makes use of all of the spot prawn: the shells form the base of the flavourful stock, while the tender meat is used in the final dish. Use frozen wild spot prawns when you can’t access fresh.
Ingredients
Spot Prawn Stock:
3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) vegetable oil
1 cup (250 mL) BC spot prawn shells and heads
2 white onions, medium dice
2 celery stalks, medium dice
1 fennel bulb with fronds
6 garlic cloves
3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) finely minced ginger
8 peppercorns
1 lime
1 kaffir lime leaf
2 tsp (10 mL) thyme
4 tsp (20 mL) BC sea salt
5 cups (1.25 L) water
Coconut Broth:
3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) vegetable oil
2 onions, finely diced
3 minced garlic cloves
1 tbsp + 2 tsp (25 mL) ginger
2 cups (500 mL) Spot Prawn Stock
4 cups (1 L) coconut milk
2 tsp (10 mL) Thai red curry paste
2 tsp (10 mL) fish sauce
4 tsp (20 mL) tomato paste
4 tsp (20 mL) brown sugar
Juice of 2 limes
2 tsp (10 mL) fish sauce
Chowder:
1/3 cup (75 mL) vegetable oil, divided
12 Qualicum Bay scallops
5 oz (150 g) steelhead salmon cut into medium dice
5 oz (150 g) sablefish, cut into medium dice
12 peeled spot prawns
18 mussels, cleaned
18 clams
3 carrot curls
2 daikon curls
1 tsp (5 mL) fresh chopped coriander
BC sea salt to taste
Directions
Spot Prawn Stock:
Toss prawn shells and vegetables in oil and spread out onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast at 350 F (180 C) until shells have browned (about 15 minutes). In a large pot, place shells, vegetables, herbs and seasonings. Add cold water and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Once stock is ready, remove from heat and, using a fine mesh strainer, strain, discarding solids, into a container and set aside.
Coconut Broth:
Heat oil in a large pot set over medium heat. Add onions and cook until browned; add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Add tomato and curry paste and cook on low for about 5 minutes. Add coconut milk and then let reduce by half. Then add in Spot Prawn Stock and simmer for 45 minutes. Remove from heat and add sugar, lime juice and fish sauce. Season with salt to taste.
Chowder:
In a large pan, heat half of the oil. Pat scallops dry and season with sea salt. Sear on each side until scallops are caramelized. Remove from pan and set aside. Add in remaining oil, then season and sear off fish. Then add in prawns, mussels, clams and Coconut Broth. Simmer until mussels and clams are all open. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
To Assemble:
Distribute soup evenly between 6 bowls and garnish with seared scallops, carrot and daikon curls and chopped coriander. Garnish with additional coriander or herb-infused oil if desired as well.
Serves 6
Recipe by Eric Pateman
Pair With:
Look for a wine with a touch of sweetness, tropical fruit notes and bright acidity to stand up to the flavourful soup. A leaner styled Gewürztraminer or crisp Riesling would work well.
Edible Canada’s Director of Liquid Assets, Treve Ring
