Archive for November, 2011

Tuesday Night Dinner

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Main Courses

While to some it may seem like I’m cooking five-course meals most nights, even we have ones where I’m looking for something still made from scratch, but doesn’t keep me cooking in the kitchen for too long.

To wit, I default to a shrimp pasta dish that takes very little time, but pays out big in flavour.

It’s got a little of everything I love–some heat, some savoury and some sweetness.

First off, shrimp.

I never buy anything smaller than 31-40 a pound as the smaller stuff, in my opinion, tastes too briny and fishy. My wife for many years balked at the idea of eating a shrimp dish because as she was growing up, I believe her mom used only the little baby ones.

Honestly, if I was only exposed to that kind (and flavour) of shrimp, I think I’d run screaming from the house at the thought of consuming them for dinner too. (Sorry Mom #2).

But, if you stick with the bigger ones, you won’t run into that problem.

For fast dinners, I go for shrimp peeled and deveined too. If you’re a keener or have the time, buying bulk shrimp that haven’t had this done to them is WAY cheaper but obviously, requiring more of your time to prep. That said, when serving a lot of them at something such as a cocktail party, save yourself a few bucks and go this route as you’ll get a lot more for your grocery dollar.

And without further ado, the recipe:

Shrimp Linguine with Garlic, Chile Flakes & Grape Tomatoes

1 pkg linguine

1/4 cup olive oil

1 head of garlic, peeled and cloves minced

2 tsp (10 mL) chile flakes (or more to taste)

1 pint grape tomatoes, half of them cut in half

1/4 cup white wine

2 cups baby spinach, trimmed

1 lb 31-40 shrimp, thawed or fresh

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS:

Prepare linguine according to directions on the box. When al dente, reserve 1/4 cup of water from the pot before draining.

In a skillet set over low heat, combine oil, garlic, chile flakes and tomatoes. Cook for about 5 to 7 minutes or until the garlic is very fragrant but now browned. Add wine, spinach and shrimp to pan and cook until shrimp is pink and spinach is wilted. Add linguine, reserved water and Parmesan cheese, tossing to coat. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Serves 2 (with leftovers)

 

Retromania

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Features

MEATLOAF IS BACK IN STYLE, AND OUR NEW VERSIONS ARE SURE TO STEAL THE SHOW AT YOUR NEXT DINNER PARTY.

BY BRANDON BOONE

127 Retromania

I must admit that I had a certain aversion to any main course dish with the word “loaf” in the title. That my friends, has now changed. What once was a classic comfort food that was often dry and smothered in, heaven help us, ketchup, has returned to kitchens, re-born and rejuvinated. No longer is this dish one you’d only serve to family on a Monday and never to guests, or worse, at a fancy dinner party-it has become something you’d be proud to bring out and show off to hungry diners, be it mid-week or on the weekend. One of the big things that has changed are the ingredients going into them. While meat is still being shaped into a loaf, now it’s more likely to be a mixture of meats that include fresh spices and other exotic ingredients. Dried fruits are starting to make frequent appearances such as apricots, cranberries and golden raisins. And why not? Perfectly seasoned meat balanced with a little sweetness from fruit sounds divine.

They’re also being being shaped into smaller, individual portions for even more aesthetic appeal and into layered versions too; ones that when cut, reveal multiple mouthwatering striations that will have folks licking their lips in anticipation. The one big thing to keep in mind when making meatloaf is that moisture is the key to success. You need to have the right fat content in the meat you’re using or a binder that’s not too dry in order to prepare one that doesn’t taste like sawdust.

To ensure your creations don’t succumb to this fate, we’ve figured out the perfect ratio of breadcrumbs to milk to create a binder that will keep your meatloaf moist throughout the cooking process.

Lastly, when forming your loaves, remember to wet your hands first. You’ll be surprised at how much doesn’t stick to your fingers when you’ve wet them first. Now, dive into our recipes below to forever change the way you look at meatloaf.

 

Apple Cinnamon en Papillote with Dark Rum & Raisins

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Desserts

126 Apple Cinnamon en Papillote with Dark Rum & Raisins

Ingredients

  • 4 medium-sized baking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
  • 3 tbsp (45 mL) dark rum
  • 1/3 cup (75 mL) raisins
  • 1/4 cup (60 mL) brown sugar
  • 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1/4 cup (60 mL) butter
  • Vanilla ice cream

Directions

Bring rum and raisins to a boil in a saucepot set over high heat. Remove from heat and let cool for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400 F (200 C). Combine sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Toss apples in brown sugar mixture. Using the slices from 1 apple, lay them in a circle, overlapping each other until the entire apple is used. Repeat with remaining apples.
Open a prepared parchment cooking bag (one bag for each apple), and carefully transfer the apple slices using a spatula or flat utensil into the bag. Top each with equal amounts of rum-raisin mixture and 1 tbsp
(15 mL) of butter. Seal the bag and place onto a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in oven for 15 minutes. Open bag carefully and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream

Serves 4

Credit: Brie Delacruz

It’s A Wrap

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Features

DELIGHT YOUR GUESTS’ EYES AND PALATES WITH THESE DISHES COOKED IN PARCHMENT PAPER.

BY BRIE DELACRUZ

126 Its A Wrap

Let’s be honest here. When it comes to having people over for a meal during the holidays, we want to make something that both looks and tastes amazing. While we all have many recipes in our head that taste great, not all of them would look great on a table set with fancy silverware, linens and candles. So, if you’re looking for something that can deliver that “wow” factor, look no further than a roll of parchment paper.

First off, what is it? Well, if you’re a baker, you’re probably already familiar with this as it’s invaluable when preparing a variety of baked goods. Parchment paper is both grease and moisture resistant and it eliminates the need to grease baking pans, making cleanup a breeze and getting whatever it is you’re baking to pop out without any hassle. Sold in rolls in boxes just like plastic wrap, it can also be folded up to make a bag that food can be cooked in. This method, called “en papillote” in French, seals in the flavour and juices of your ingredients and makes one heck of a presentation when you bring the package to the table for the big reveal.

It also requires very little oil, making for extremely healthy meals, and, in terms of cleanup, you cook everything in a bag that gets tossed at the end of the meal, making for minimal work for you when dinner is done.

To serve, simply place the baked pouch on your guests’ dinner plate and either cut open the bag with kitchen scissors or let them do it themselves, releasing the intense and mouthwatering aromas of steamed food within.

To make a parchment pouch for cooking, there are a couple of options. First, cut a square of parchment and fold it in half. Next, cut the paper into the shape of a heart. Yes, a heart-think a giant Valentine’s Day card. After that, place the dry ingredients you’re going to cook into the centre of the right side of the heart. Then, fold the left side of the heart over the right, covering the ingredient. Starting at the top of the seam, make a small fold upwards along the open edge. What we’re doing is sealing the open edge so no moisture or liquid can get out. Repeat the folds alongside the edge, slightly overlapping the previous one, until almost sealed at the bottom. This is when you can add any liquid you’d like to the pouch. Then fold the bottom part and you’re good to go.

Another, and easier way to make a parchment cooking bag, is to again start with a square of parchment, fold it in half to make a crease, then place your food on one side of the fold. Place the other side of parchment over the food, fold in each of the three sides then staple, yep staple, every inch or so to seal.

Works like a charm.

Lastly, and the easiest way of all-buy the sealed parchment bags. You can find pre-folded parchment bags at supermarkets in the same aisle you’d find plastic wrap and aluminum foil. Talk about easy.

Now that you’ve mastered making (or buying) the bags, it’s time to put something in them.

Try these delicious recipes that are sure to have you thinking, “Why haven’t I done this sooner?”

Going Green

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Mise En Place

BY ALEX SVENNE

cheffy Going Green


What are two short words that strike fear in the hearts of children and adults alike? Brussels sprouts. Shoved to the side of the plate, hidden under a napkin, and often fed to the dog, Brussels are the veggie that no one likes to eat. There is some science behind this, which I will get to in due course, but I want to get into the very idea of food dislikes.

Everyone has something they just don’t like. Some people are very fussy and dislike almost everything. My son eats pasta, hot dogs, bread, pizza, apples and carrots. That is all. Others are more adventurous and like almost everything. My daughter eats blue cheese, olives, curry, sushi and almost everything else you can create. But even she has a dislike. She doesn’t like mushrooms. I have always enjoyed most foods, but I didn’t like caraway seeds. Being from an eastern European family, we ate a lot of dark rye bread. I loved it, but if my mom bought the one with caraway seeds, I couldn’t stand it.

But now I like caraway. I like caraway now because I made a conscious decision not to let my old food dislikes get in the way of my enjoyment of food. My wife hated olives. For 18 years, I would routinely encourage her to try them. When I discovered jumbo green Cerignola olives, I fed one to her. She reluctantly tried it, and liked it! Now she likes all olives; Cerignola, the gateway olive.

People develop food dislikes for many different reasons. Sometimes it happens in childhood. Children’s tastebuds are particularly sensitive, so strong flavours can put them off. Sometimes they had a bad experience with food. I can’t tell you how many times I have heard; “I had some bad mussels once.” Or the classic, “Ever since that time in high school, I can’t stand the taste of tequila.” And sometimes people have food dislikes because they have never had it prepared properly. The worst scenario is when people dislike food they have never even tried! How often do I hear, “I don’t like blue cheese.” Have you tried it? “No, I just don’t like it.”

I challenge you to face your food fears. Find those dishes you think you don’t like and try them again. Your sense of taste changes. Learn how to prepare the food properly. Try it in a restaurant. Open your mind and expand your palate. There is a world of food out there for you to experience and enjoy.

Now, back to Brussels sprouts. Named for the city in Belgium, the sprouts have origins in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts contain strong cancer-fighting compounds. They also contain a chemical called glucosilinate sinigrin, which my son explains to me is a sugar bonded with a sulfur-nitrogen compound. This chemical is released at high temperature producing a sulfur smell and taste. This seems to explain why Brussels sprouts are so often disliked. You are over cooking them!

Brussels sprouts are bright green when you pick them off the plant and they should be bright green when you cook them. When they get the colour of army fatigues you have gone too far. You can cook them whole, cut them in half or slice them. If you choose to cook them whole, cause this looks cool, cut slits in the tops to allow the heat to get in and the steam to escape. Cook them until they are tender, but still a nice bright shade of green. You can boil them in boiling salted water. You can cut them in half, toss them with olive oil and roast them in a hot oven. I like to slice them and pan-fry them. This is the fastest way to cook them and you get the nice nutty flavours when the sugars caramelize. I will fry them up with a little grainy mustard and a shot of honey. I love Brussels sprouts with pork or duck, but I have been known to sit down and just eat a bowl of Brussels sprouts with nothing else.

So, it’s time to face your fears and try Brussels sprouts again.

Mo’ Bitter, Mo’ Better!

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Beer Cheers

THE MIGHTY HOP RETURNS EN MASSE TO PRODUCE BEERS THAT ARE PERFECT PARTNERS TO A WIDE VARIETY OF FOOD.

BY STEPHEN BEAUMONT

Beaumont Mo Bitter, Mo Better!

How bitter is your beer? A mild tang? A moderate bite? Or perhaps you prefer a full-blown, peel-the-skin-from-your-cheeks assault?

Whichever your preference, if you’re a fan of craft beer, chances are your brew will be getting more bitter in the future. Because just as hoppy India pale ales, known as IPAs, have become the dominant flavour force in premium beer south of the border, Canadian craft beers are now breaking free from their historically maltier moulds to grow more prominently, assertively or even aggressively bitter.

For evidence of this shift, you need look no further than this past fall’s Canadian Brewing Awards, where out of a field of more than 475 beers from 84 breweries, the brew chosen Canadian Beer of the Year was Fat Tug IPA, a hoppy, spicy-citrusy ale from Victoria’s Driftwood Brewing. And the winner of the North American Style Pale Ale Category? A beer called Crazy Canuck from Toronto’s Great Lakes Brewing, which even a decade ago might have been deemed overly bitter for the style.

Before we get to how this hoppy revolution has come to pass, perhaps we should first look at what makes a beer bitter, namely the flower of the vine Humulus lupulus, or the hop.

Although records are sketchy, it is thought that hops became a common ingredient in brewing sometime between 600 and 1000 AD, around the same time that Bavarians began storing their beers in ice caves at the foot of the Alps. Like this rather basic form of refrigeration-which also marked the start of cool temperature lager fermentation-hops were found to help preserve the beer during the non-brewing months of summer, and thus assured thirsty workers of a reliable, year-round supply of beer.

The key part of the tiny, pine cone-shaped hop is a resinous yellow substance found within its leaves, called lupulin. In addition to providing a hop’s preservative power, lupulin also contributes a drying bitterness to beer when added during the boiling stage of a brew.

As pasteurization took off in the 20th century and breweries grew bigger and better at keeping infection out of their beers, however, hoppy bitterness gradually fell out of favour. (Some suggest that Prohibition, with its sugary soda pops disguising the roughness of contraband liquors, also contributed to a sweetening of the North American palate.) By the ’70s, most beers were as smooth drinking as a glass of water, and about as bitter.

The micro brewing, now craft-brewing renaissance changed all that, of course, but even through the ’90s, most Canadian breweries were reluctant to produce overly hoppy beers. Then came what might be described as the “lupulin shift” of the mid-2000s and suddenly pale ales, IPAs and even potent, highly hopped so-called “double” IPAs came to the fore.

Today, steadily increasing numbers of ale aficionados, and even many craft beer “newbies,” are swooning over IPAs like Driftwood’s award-winner and Red Racer IPA from last year’s Canadian Brewery of the Year, Central City Brewing of Surrey, B.C.; even bigger brews like Nova Scotia’s Garrison Imperial IPA and Tree Brewing’s Hop Head Double India Pale Ale from the B.C. interior; and heavily hopped American imports such as Rogue Dead Guy Ale and He’brew Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A.

While many such beers find favour purely on their own, the more bitterness-adverse of drinkers are discovering that they also partner well with meals, particularly spicy, salty or fatty dishes, as the hoppiness moderates the intensity of the foods while not diminishing their flavours, as would a mouth-numbingly cold lager.

With all this to recommend them-boisterous flavours, food-friendliness and style-stretching allure-it’s hardly any wonder that Canada seems to be turning bitterer by the week!

Fireplace Wines

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Wine Not?

A HANDFUL OF WINES THAT NEED NO FOOD ACCOMPANIMENT TO BE GREAT.

BY MIREILLE SAUVÉ

Mireille Fireplace Wines

Ever been told that wine and food should be enjoyed together? Sure, food and wine are fundamentally meant to complement each other as even science reveals that the PH level in wine is very close to that of the acids in our stomachs, acting as further evidence that the two are physiologically meant to be consumed together. But there is no denying that sometimes we just feel like a glass of wine and when such occasions arise, we should look to “Fireplace Wines” to quench our thirsts.

Fireplace Wines are wines that need no food accompaniment to be great. They might be red or white, still or sparkling, dry or sweet. Ostensibly, these are wines to which the ideal pairing is simply a seat by a warm fire.

Champagne is a classic fireside wine: decadent, captivating and exciting, all without taking a single bite of food. But why stop at French Champagne when bubbles abound all over the world at some much more affordable price points? Look to Spain for Cava, Italy for Prosecco, France for Crémant, Germany for Sekt or new-world wine-producing regions for excellent quality sparkling wines; California, South Africa, New Zealand and Canada just to name a few. The bubble in the bottle is what makes these wines perfect partners to curl up with by the fire so dry wines like Cava, Crémant or Champagne can be just as satisfying as fruitier, off-dry wines like Prosecco or Sekt, depending on your own personal preferences. But bubbles aren’t the only way to go while listening to the crackle of the wood burning.

Australia makes an abundance of delicious Shiraz-one of the fullest, softest and most fireside-worthy wines. Look for stellar examples from the McLaren Vale and Barossa regions. While there is a vast selection of such wines to choose from, try to look for wines that don’t feature as much structure as you might want when choosing a wine to drink with dinner. Vanilla is a good thing-tannins, not so much. When you sip on a fireplace wine, it should practically melt in your mouth so the wines that have a lot of structure, oak or astringency don’t fit the bill here-save those wines for your prime rib dinners. The good news is that there’s a lot of Shiraz at the lower end of the price scale that are great picks for sipping solo.

Syrah is the rest of the world’s counterpart to Australia’s Shiraz, made from the same grape but spelled differently. Again we look for softer renditions of this grape when the occasion is a fireside sip, so look to California, Washington State, Chile and other warmer-climate wine areas for these bottles. The hotter the growing season in the vineyards, the riper the grapes, and ripe grapes make juicy wines-all the better to enjoy without food.

California is home to a number of wines that fit within this comfort category, among them Petite Sirah and certain Merlots but the most famous fireplace wine from the Golden State is Zinfandel. “Jammy” is a word often used to describe Zinfandel, and that’s a very good quality when you’re looking for a thirst-quenching wine. Ripe, robust, velvety and round are some pretty good characteristics too, and they all come together in this uniquely Californian grape. Single vineyard or “Old Vine” examples of these wines are especially fine in a glass by the glow, warming the body from the inside out.

While fireplace wines do tend to be new-world wines with old-world wines being better known for their food-friendliness, there are a few examples that should not go unnoticed as imbibing soloists. Amarone is the most pronounced version of these flavourful old-world examples made in Italy’s Veneto region and is a distinctly concentrated red wine featuring raisined nuances with all sorts of dark spices and chocolate notes, just perfect for enjoyment on its own.

Of course, no fireside session would be complete without a glass of ever-celebrated port, a fortified wine from Portugal that comes in a wide range of colours, ages and prices. Whether a lighter-style Tawny port with its chestnut nuances and caramel tones or a Vintage Ruby port full of bright purple complexity and balance, these wines are possibly the ultimate fireplace wines as they are higher in alcohol and warm the imbiber from the first whiff of the glass.

Taste and preference will guide you to your favourites, but the one constant about all of these wines is that they taste simply great when you drink them by the fire. No food required.

Wingin' It

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Brandon's Blog

I’m not sure how or why, but within the last few years I’ve become quite a fan of CFL football.

Sure, most of my television viewing is still directed at the Food Network but I’ve starting taping football games for watching too.

It’s been tough as a Winnipeg fan, not so much this year, but the ones before because, well, we sucked. It’s hard watching your favourite team get throttled over and over again–it’s just plain exhausting.

Regardless, our team has finally made it to the Grey Cup and will take on the Lions on Sunday.

I’m going to wager that one of the most popular snack items at parties and restaurants game day is going to be chicken wings.

There’s just something about watching a game and munching on them with a cold beer to wash them down.

While I am a big fan of straight up hot wings, I find I need a change from time to time.

One of second favourite ways to make them is to marinate them in a bucket o’ flavour overnight.

Then, the next day, I take them out of the marinade, season with sea salt and pepper, and then grill to perfection on the barbecue.

To wit, the goods so you can try this delicious alternative to the standard hot wing this Sunday too, courtesy of Carbone’s pizza in Winnipeg.

Garlic & Herb Marinated Chicken Wings
Marinade:
2 lb (1 kg) chicken wings, rinsed and patted dry
1 large onion yellow, cut into quarters
3 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tbsp (30 mL) paprika
Pinch of red chile flakes
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh oregano
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh rosemary
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh thyme
1/3 cup (75 mL) olive oil
Sea salt
Fresh ground pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, tossing to coat wings. Cover and let marinate in the fridge overnight. Remove from marinade and season with salt and pepper.

Preheat barbecue over medium heat. Place wings on grill and cook, turning every few minutes or so, until lightly charred and fully cooked. Serve to hungry football fans immediately.

 

Makin' Bacon

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Brandon's Blog

If given the option (and be free from heart attacks), I’m pretty sure I’d have bacon at every meal as there’s few ingredients that can make what you’re eating taste even better.

Potatoes cooked in bacon fat? Oh mama. Strips of bacon laid over beans that get baked in the oven? Absolutely! The classic BLT? Mark me down for two.

Now with this great power comes great responsibility and I’m sad to report that there are some out there that are not worthy to wear the name bacon.

Most recently, I spied a major brand’s version of ‘country natural’ bacon on the supermarket shelf and it appealed to me since it contained ‘just the good stuff’ and was free from nitrates.

I must admit that up to this point, I’ve kept most lunch meats out of the diet of my two little girls but I’ve been swayed by the natural stuff from time to time and thought this bacon would be worth a try since the other products weren’t too bad.

Boy, was I wrong.

When it comes to bacon, I usually buy it from my butcher as I find the quality I get is far superior to the stuff found in plastic packages but wanted to give this product a chance.

Again, big mistake.

As soon as I pulled it from the package, I knew I made a mistake. It smelled smoky, but that fake smoke, not real hardwood smoke.

I added a few strips to the pan and as it cooked, a lot of moisture was released, meaning this product may have been plumped up with a brine or water solution so that it appeared bigger than it really was.”Normal” bacon doesn’t do this and as it cooked, it wasn’t browning in the way bacon normally does. Yes, it started to darken but it took forever to cook in the pan and required multiple turns to do so.

Finally, it finished and I wondered if my patience would be rewarded.

Sigh.

I was making it for a breakfast sandwich and after sampling one of the strips that had cooled, I actually passed on the rest.

Yes, I passed on bacon.

So my friends, while the allure of ‘natural’ bacon may pique your interest, don’t succumb to it’s siren call as it will only disappoint.

Have you tried this ‘natural’ bacon? If so, what are your thoughts on it?

Raising a Glass to Movember

Posted by Brandon. Posted in Brandon's Blog

While I know a great deal of men who are participating in this year’s Movember, I am not.

Why?

Well, as an extremely facial folically-challenged individual, the haphazard collection of hair that would slowly creep outwards from above my top lip would be an insult to moustaches everywhere. Even those barely-there traces of hair grown by junior high school guys would put the one I would sport to shame.

Aside from the aesthetics of it, I also can’t because of the consequences I would face if I did. With two daughters under the age of four running around the house, I’ve been told that if I’m scratchy, I get no bedtime kisses. And that friends, I cannot live without.

That said, I am a supporter of the charity event and do fund a few friends in their moustache growing endeavours. Aside from myself and thousands of others showing their support, Rickards beer is also showing their Movember colours producing a special four pack of tall boy cans featuring a signature ‘stache.

I’m not entirely sure if any funds from purchasing this beer go to the campaign, but I do know that even if it doesn’t, cans with moustaches are awesome.

rickards movember 300x219 Raising a Glass to Movember